Valldemossa
Located in the northwest of the island and the highest town in Majorca, Valldemossa occupies a lofty setting on the slopes of the Sierra de Tramuntana Mountains in picturesque surroundings among olive and almond trees. Valldemossa is a beautiful and charming town with steep, winding streets and a number of quality attractions that appeal to day trippers and those looking for a quiet holiday alike.
The star attraction is the 14th century Carthusian monastery (La Cartuja) where Polish composer Frédéric Chopin spent the winter of 1838 with his mistress and, despite battling with tuberculosis, Chopin produced some of his best works here. One of Majorca’s most visited buildings, the monastery and its beautiful grounds can be visited any day of the week; here you can view Chopin’s piano and manuscripts.
The Municipal Museum resides in the monastery church and contains works of modern art by the likes of Picasso, Francis Bacon and Miro. Additionally, Miguel Bayeu’s frescoes can be seen in the church vaults. Next door to the monastery is the Moorish Palau del Rei Sancho, which can also be visited. Valldemossa is also known for its present day residents, Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones, who have a mansion near the village.
The Costa Nord centre in the village showcases the history of Majorca via a narration by Michael Douglas and includes a big section on the 19th century Habsburg, Archduke Ludwig Salvador, who absconded to the Balearics. The rest of the town is very touristy, but charming all the same and well worth exploring.
The Puerto de Valldemossa is west of the town and has a rocky cove suitable for bathing, while several cafés and restaurants back the beach. For the adventurous, several hiking trails traverse the mountains around the town, where striking panoramic views can be enjoyed. Valldemossa is mainly a day trip destination, but there are a few accommodation options, the cream of the crop being the Valldemossa Hotel with its superb restaurant.
Out of town and on the way to nearby Deia through the mountains is San Marroig, one of Archduke Ludwig Salvador’s former residences. Surrounded by lush gardens that offer fantastic sea views, it is now a museum containing personal mementos of the Habsburg family.
Deia also has a picturesque mountain setting overlooking the sea and is a haven for writers, artists and musicians, the most famous of whom, Robert Graves, lies buried in the cemetery. Highlights in the town include the main street, with its galleries and workshops as well as numerous cafés and bars; while the beach area, Cala de Deia, is lively and great for bathing.
Northeast of Deia, Soller is another charming mountain town and is loaded with interesting old buildings, while Puerto de Soller can be reached by tram and is an exciting beach resort. Soller is a town of gardens and squares and Plaça de la Constitució (the main square) features the 16th century Església Parroquial de San Bartolomé with its Gothic forms and a host of nearby bars and restaurants. The train ride back to Palma from Soller is magnificent as you pass through olive groves and the mountains.
Getting there
Although Valldemossa is nestled in among the peaks of the Sierra Tramuntana, getting here by car takes only about 30 minutes, made easy by the PM111, a direct minor route from Palma. Several daily buses also run from Palma. After sightseeing in Valldemossa you can always take another bus from Valldemossa to Soller, from where the mountain railway leads back into the capital to complete a loop.