Soller and Puerto de Soller
Nestled among the rugged Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range and largely isolated from the frenetic atmosphere of Palma, Soller is a picturesque Majorca destination that remains a quieter choice, despite being just 20 miles north of the capital. Popular with middle aged couples, Soller is an intoxicating blend of history, dramatic scenery and down-to-earth appeal. It is also conveniently close to two other Majorca gems; the ancient town of Deia and the mountain monastery at Valldemossa.
In fact, Soller has a double personality, for it consists of a sleepy town two and a half miles inland, while Puerto de Soller occupies a lovely setting in a perfect horseshoe bay. Many of the summer tourists head for the beaches and waterfront accommodation, but it’s easy to escape into the delightful inland town and explore the adjacent villages of Fornalutx and Biniaraix, which time seems to have left behind.
Puerto de Soller was once busy as a despatch point for the harvest of oranges from the bowl shaped valley inland, and saw off a pirate invasion in 1561, but today is firmly a tourist destination which empties out in the winter months. It offers some spectacular vistas with its perfect horseshoe shape, hemmed in by two distinctive headlands and backed by some of the island’s loftiest peaks. At its eastern end lie the port and naval station. The tram from Palma stops here after sweeping around the bay along the waterfront, and visitors can pour out into the nearby old town. This is the liveliest part of Puerto de Soller and is full of restaurants and bistros, particularly at the Mar y Sol on the quayside. If you wander into the narrow streets and climb the stairs you will come upon some interesting miradors (lookout towers).
Although the beach in Puerto de Soller isn’t one of the island’s best due to its limited space, Playa d ’en Repic (at the western edge of the bay) is best for swimming and relaxing. Plans are underway to further develop the area’s facilities to better suit families, with the addition of a man-made beach and promenade planned for completion by mid-2005.
Two and a half miles inland is Soller town, which lies in a large and fertile bowl- shaped valley characterised by orange orchards and olive groves. Here you’ll find a typical Majorcan town that offers up a delightful experience of narrow windy lanes, sun baked terracotta roofed ancient houses and a sleepy way of life that has yet to yield to any overly commercial tourist pretensions.
If you aren’t convinced by this, then explore the valley farther by venturing into the two picture-perfect villages of Fornalutx and Biniaraix, a further two and a half miles away. Oranges are still harvested here and olive oil pressed in ancient vats, demonstrating how the island once was before the arrival of holidaymakers.
A wander around Soller reveals houses dating back to the 14th century. The church of Saint Bartholomew in the main square is the most impressive sight and the Ca'n Prunera in the Carrer de Sa Lluna is also worth seeing. There are also several fine examples along the Gran Via. The Ca'n Mo, which dates from 1740, now houses a commendable museum featuring items of ethnological interest, as well as archaeological findings and antique artefacts.
One main reason people come to Soller is to experience its wonderful outdoors and go hiking in the majestic Sierra de Tramuntana. The crown jewel of this range is Puig Major, the island’s highest peak, which looms above the small town. There are a number of excellent walks to embark on, such as the Camí del Rost that leads to the historic town of Deia. This two-hour walk gives glimpses of the coast as it passes the fincas of S'Heretat, Ca'n Prohom and Son Coll en route over the hills.
Since Soller is one of Majorca’s more sedate destinations, activities and nightlife here are more subdued and limited, which is part of its appeal. Plenty of accommodation lines the waterfront or is squashed into the limited space of the bay, and the old town offers a respectable selection of local and international food and beverages.
Day trips to the ancient town of Deia and the mountain monastery at Valledemossa are both highly recommended. Heading in the opposite direction, the road north towards Pollenca and Alcudia is tough going, but dramatically scenic.
Getting there
Although Soller is about 30 miles from Palma International Airport, the road is treacherous, full of switchbacks and difficult terrain. The recommended way to reach Soller is to take the vintage tram, known as the ‘orange express’, which traverses the mountain passes five times a day in each direction between Soller and Palma. Despite the two-hour journey it is scenically rewarding and popular with day trippers. Alternatively, buses run regularly to this isolated town – the only proper resort on the rugged northwest coast.
