North coast of Mallorca
If you want to escape the hordes of package tourists and high-rise hotels, then head for the north coast of Majorca and you will be feel like you’ve been transported back in time, and you can get a glimpse of how Majorca was before mass tourism took over.
For a quieter holiday in which scenic beauty as well as culture and history take priority over expansive beaches, bars and nightlife then you should consider the north coast, where nestled in between the towering mountain peaks of the Sierra de Tramuntana are small, picturesque and culturally interesting towns with historic connections to poets and composers.
That’s not to say there aren’t beaches on the north for sunbathing and relaxing – the perfect horseshoe-shaped bay of Puerto de Soller and the adjacent Playa d ’en Repic are great for swimming and relaxing and there are other fine beaches dotted around too. You may have to compete for space with the resident artists though who often set up on some of the beaches.
Soller is a lovely little town, which still carries on today as if the touristy Palma and Alcudia are in a different world. In between the narrow streets and alleys are some great little cafes and bistros, as well as sights of historic and cultural interest such as the Miradors (lookout towers) and the many traditional Majorcan terracotta roofed houses.
It is possible to embark on beautiful, scenic walks among olive and orange groves while admiring the majestic mountain ranges in one direction, or the stunning sea view in the other. But if walking is your thing then you’ll be well served in Soller, as there are some excellent hiking opportunities in the Sierra de Tramuntana and, in fact, that is one of the principal reasons many people come to visit this part of the island.
To the south of Soller is the delightful town of Deia, famous chiefly for its previous resident the English poet Robert Graves. Deia is a perfect destination for the artistically minded, with art galleries and workshops lining many of the streets, and many local artists taking to the beach here too – although this can make the small beach become crowded.
There are excellent walking routes around Deia too, again offering superb views of Majorca’s coastline. And a hard day’s walking can be rounded off with a hearty meal in any of Deia’s excellent, relaxing cafes or restaurants.
In the north-west of the island, the small mountain town of Valldemossa is another of Majorca’s gems, with historical links to the composer Frédéric Chopin, whose manuscripts and piano can be seen.
Valdemossa has typically Majorcan steep, narrow lanes which you can navigate your way around in order to see the town’s principal tourist attractions, the monastery grounds and museum, where Chopin’s artefacts are housed. The museum is home to some impressive works of art, so you can really get your cultural fix in Valdemossa – although it is more usual to visit here for a day trip rather than staying for a long time.
But if you’re staying on the north coast, each of the three main towns are well worth a visit, and you’ll surely be impressed by your interesting and beautiful surroundings while you do. Just don’t expect to party into the night after you’ve finished your daytime explorations.